Photo by Jernej Graj on Unsplash
In short: Your skin needs water from both sides: the water you drink and eat, and the moisture you help it to hold on the outside. When it runs short, it looks dull, feels tight and shows every fine line. Drink through the day, eat plenty of fruit and vegetables, choose gentle products that hold moisture in, and your skin becomes softer and more comfortable. It won’t work miracles, but you can see and feel the difference.
You’re in front of the bathroom mirror on a winter morning. The heating has been on for weeks. Your cheeks feel tight after washing, there’s a dry patch next to your nose, and your make-up sits in little lines it didn’t sit in last summer. You reach for a richer cream, and by lunchtime the tightness is back.
Very often, what your skin is asking for isn’t another product. It’s water. So let’s look at what hydration really does for your skin, and what you can do about it today, with what you already have at home.
What does hydration do for your skin?
Your skin has three layers. The one you see and touch is the outer layer, and it’s the one that shows most clearly whether you have enough water. Think of a grape and a raisin. When the cells of that outer layer are full of water, they’re plump, the surface is smooth and the light bounces off it. When they lose water, they shrink a little, and the surface looks dull and feels rough.
Well-hydrated skin also does its job better. It’s your coat, after all: it keeps the outside world out and the moisture in. When it’s comfortable and supple, it copes more easily with wind, cold, heating, city air and sun.
How can you tell that your skin is thirsty?
These are the signs to look for:
It feels tight, especially after washing.
It looks dull or a little grey, even after a good night.
Fine lines show more than usual, around the eyes and the mouth.
You see flaky or itchy patches.
It’s shiny and tight at the same time. Skin that’s short of water sometimes makes more oil to protect itself, which can lead to spots.
That last one surprises many people. Oily skin can be thirsty too, and drying it out even more rarely helps.
Your skin is often not the only part of you that notices. Tiredness, a heavy head and a short temper can come from the same place, as I explain in how staying hydrated helps your mood and energy.
Six ways to bring more moisture to your skin
1. Drink through the day
It sounds obvious, and it’s still the first thing to look at. There’s no magic number of glasses. Drink regularly through the day, and more when it’s hot or when you’re active. A glass of water when you get up, a jug on the table at meals and a bottle within reach while you work will take you a long way. If you have questions about how much, what counts and what doesn’t, you’ll find the answers in my 18 questions and answers on hydration.
2. Eat your water
Fruit and vegetables are full of water, and they bring vitamins and colour with them. Cucumber, tomatoes, lettuce, courgettes, oranges, melon and berries in summer; soups, stews, pears and mandarins in winter. The more colours on your plate, the better for your skin, and I’ve written more about that in why eating a rainbow matters. Healthy fats help too: olive oil, avocado, nuts and oily fish help your skin to keep the moisture it has.
Go easy on alcohol and on too many coffees in a row. Both leave your skin looking more tired the next morning.
3. Choose products that hold water in
On the label, look for ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, glycerin and ceramides. They draw water to the skin and help to keep it there. A moisturiser, a serum or a facial mist can all do this. You don’t need all three. One product you use every day does more than five that stay in the cupboard.
A small habit that helps: put your cream on while your skin is still slightly damp. It seals in the water that’s already there.
4. Be careful with products that dry your skin
Products with a lot of alcohol, strong foaming cleansers and some active anti-ageing or anti-spot treatments can strip the skin of its natural moisture. If you use them, use them sparingly and follow them with something that moisturises. If your skin stays red or sore, ask your pharmacist or dermatologist for advice.
5. Look at the air around you
Central heating in winter and air conditioning in summer both dry the air, and your skin with it. A humidifier in the bedroom can help. So can a bowl of water near the radiator, airing the room every morning and turning the heating down a little at night.
6. Take care of yourself
Your skin shows how you live. Enough rest, less stress and doing things that bring you joy all show on your face. A week of short nights shows too. If your evenings tend to run away with you, a few simple sleep habits can do as much for your skin as any cream, and a little mindful self-care is never wasted.
What does your skin type need?
Everyone’s skin is different. What suits your sister or your best friend may not suit you, and your own skin changes with the seasons, with your hormones and with age. So watch how your skin responds, and adjust.
If your skin is oily or prone to spots, you may hesitate to moisturise for fear of making things worse. The right product can help your skin to find its balance. Choose a light moisturiser or serum that’s labelled non-comedogenic, which means it won’t clog your pores.
If your skin is dry or sensitive, it needs something richer and more nourishing. Look for ingredients such as shea butter, jojoba oil and aloe vera, and keep perfumed products to a minimum.
Hydration isn’t something you fix once. Your skin needs it every day, which is why a short routine you really follow is worth more than an elaborate one you give up after a week. And it’s one part of the picture. Protecting your skin from the sun, exfoliating gently now and then and eating well all count as well.
Three easy homemade masks
These take five minutes to make, with ingredients from your kitchen. Choose the one that suits your skin, leave it on for ten to fifteen minutes and rinse with warm water.
For oily skin or skin prone to spots
Mix one tablespoon of bentonite clay with one tablespoon of apple cider vinegar and one drop of tea tree oil. The clay absorbs excess oil. Cider vinegar and tea tree oil are traditionally used on skin that tends to break out. This is the strongest of the three masks, so if your skin is at all sensitive, mix the clay with water and leave the other two out.
For dry or sensitive skin
Mash half an avocado and stir in one tablespoon of honey and one tablespoon of plain yoghurt. Avocado is rich in healthy fats that nourish the skin, and honey and yoghurt are soft and soothing.
For normal or combination skin
Mix one tablespoon of raw honey with one teaspoon of turmeric and one teaspoon of coconut oil. Honey helps the skin to hold moisture, turmeric is an old favourite for a brighter complexion, and coconut oil softens. Turmeric can leave a yellow tint on fair skin and on towels, so use an old flannel and rinse well.
Always test a new ingredient on a small patch of skin, for instance on the inside of your arm, before you put it on your face. If you have a skin condition or your skin reacts easily, check with a dermatologist first.
Frequently asked questions
Will drinking more water get rid of wrinkles?
No. Lines are part of a face that has lived, laughed and spent time outdoors. What water does is help your skin look less tired and feel more comfortable, especially if you were not drinking much before. Sun protection, sleep and what you eat matter just as much.
Is dry skin the same as dehydrated skin?
Not quite. Dry skin is a skin type: it makes little oil and tends to feel rough all year. Dehydrated skin is short of water, and that can happen to any skin type, even an oily one. Dry skin usually asks for richer creams and oils, dehydrated skin for water, inside and out, and a cream that helps to hold it in.
Do I need a moisturiser if my skin is oily?
Usually yes. When oily skin is stripped with harsh products, it often feels tight and shiny at the same time. A light moisturiser that does not clog the pores helps your skin to stay comfortable. If you have acne, ask your pharmacist or dermatologist which products suit you.
How often can I use a homemade face mask?
Once a week is plenty for most skins. Make it fresh each time, test a little on the inside of your arm the day before, and rinse it off straight away if your skin stings or goes red.
When should I talk to my doctor?
If your skin is very dry, cracked, itchy or sore for more than a couple of weeks, if you have a rash that does not settle, or if dry skin comes with great thirst, tiredness or other changes you cannot explain, see your doctor or a dermatologist. The same goes for acne that leaves marks or weighs on your mood.
Would you like some help?
What you eat and drink shows on your skin, and everyday habits like these are part of what we work on in my group programmes in nutrition and health, such as Six Tuesdays in Montignac. If you’d like to hear when the next group opens, write to me at hello@catherinepolet.coach.
Would you rather work one to one? I also coach online. Book a free 20-minute call, and we’ll look together at what would help you feel well in your skin, from the inside out.
About Catherine
I’m Catherine Polet, a holistic nutrition health coach, yoga and autogenic training teacher for more than 30 years, author and speaker. I help people find a way of eating and living that suits their own body, online in English, French, Spanish and German, and in person in Southwest France.
